Not done by a hater, quite the opposite, be patient......
4.666665
Average: 4.7(6 votes)
Comments
GKhan (Old Spike)
This car is incredible value for the money, you just have to have the $$$. Besides that, I almost agree with everything he said.
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daftcunt (Old Spike)
Like I said in another post the quality willhave to be evaluated over time.
What gets me is this automatic software update, what if one day they decide "your model is obsolete now, pleasebring it to the next tesla recycling station"?
Another issue with the model 3 is they all actually have the same battery but only in the expensive model you get the full range, this is "taking the piss squared"
!
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GKhan (Old Spike)
WRT Quality: the biggest cost and most important thing are the batteries and Tesla is proven to be much better than anyone else (I'll reply below to the other post on that). Other than that the most expensive quality issue in a ICE is the engine/exhaust/etc... which Tesla doesn't have. Outside of that, what are we left with? body, paint, interior? There are definitly some issues with these things that are not as good as the mainstream auto companies. Some model 3s are worse than others. I think the questions becomes, how long are you going to own it before upgrading? :)
RE: Your model is obsolete software update: So if they stop updating the software automatically you will have the same software - like every other auto manufacture. I think it's more fear then substance. Sure Tesla could be dicks and say after 10 years, no more updates for you, go buy another Tesla. And you could watch your car's re-sale value plummet, even though everything else is great. This would be a poor choice for Tesla. I think you will see more specific things not work, like, hey we can't give you the latest auto pilot because you are running old hardware (true). But if you come in an upgrade your sensors and cameras you will be good to go. Anyway, at least you don't have to pay $300 for an update and take it into the shop to have a mechanic install it.
RE: the battery size, that is half right and there is a significant reason why plus it doesn't matter. First the Long Range/Performance have an extra cell vs Standard version and you can't buy those versions with the cell disabled. Yes the Standard and Standard+ have the same amount of cells and the Standard has less range that can be software upgraded to the Standard+ range. BUT, this was done so the base price of that vehicle model could meet tax credit/incentives limits and Musk also wanted to deliver a $35K USD car. Tesla may actually be losing money on the Standard. And even after that the range for the price is still better than any other battery electric vehicle.
I won't argue that Tesla isn't trying to be creative with packaging/pricing and has made some mistake but to imply that they are trying to trick people is a bit of a stretch. As I said earlier, yes the car is expensive but for what you get it is an incredible deal. There are so many things that would only come in an ICE car for $30K+ more.
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daftcunt (Old Spike)
Well I meant more like the car goes intoauto mode and drives itself tothe recycling centre... LOL
I did not know about the tax issue.
Lastly there are a few electrical and electronic components in there, that will probably not last. Motors will probably never fail (but are not expensive to replace anyway) and suspension is as in other cars.
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Dagambit (Long Spike)
2% degradation? at 20k miles?
Shit...
I just hit 10k about to get tires rotated on Thursday, already have 5% loss. Charge everyday to 90% and drain to 10-30%
I am curious to see what Tesla has to say about how fast my battery has degradated.
Anyone else curious? I so, I can post an update.
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daftcunt (Old Spike)
I wouldn't worry too much, you are still under waranty.... keep us posted!
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GKhan (Old Spike)
So warranty is min 70% of battery for 160K-190K km, depending on version.
On the good side, Tesla batteries are incredibly resiliant compared to others. Yes there is a typical 2-5% drop in the first year but after that they trend to 93% after 200K.
Again, compare this to any other BEV and it's untouchable. Can't tell you how many times I've heard a Leaf owner telling me they are down to 50% capacity.
This is for model S and X batteries not model 3, so time will tell if they perform the same but from what I understand, Tesla is trying to make the same batteries and continually improve them so it's not like they are using cheaper quality batteries in the 3. Anyway, in a year or so all models will be using the same type of batteries.
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Dagambit (Long Spike)
So, I got an update!
Battery is still at 100%, I have zero loss. Although, I was educated a little bit. So, i will elaborate.
On the screen of the model 3 you have a battery icon on the left near the top. This icon can either be a percentage or a range mileage. I always have it on mileage, and i charge to 90% so it looks like this.
AUG 20th - 280 miles | SEP 3rd - 275 miles | SEP 20th - 271 miles | OCT 22nd - 267 miles <--- worried
Tesla called me back and offered to schedule me remote diagnostics and remote (mobile) rotation of tires.
Diag would be free as covered under warranty and the rotation is $127 flat fee.
They would come to my work with special jacks, inspect the vehicle and if needed rotate the tires right there for me, no need for me to take time off. $127 is a little expensive like $30 more than average, but it saves me an hour of sitting at Tesla so, I am going to pay it.
Diag came back, battery is fine. The range number is a reflection of how i drive ( i race home most days, or letting others test acceleration by giving them a test drive. ) and turns out I have been speeding to much. The car remembers your driving habits and logs them to calculate your approximate distance left. Very similar to the gas counter part, where you fill out with gas and it tells you how far you can go. The difference being, where gas resets every fill up the Tesla remembers and applies it to the dash display. I am babying the car to work and back now, as it was intended when I first purchased it, arrived home yesterday with 70 miles on my charge to go. which means to get back and forth to work total distance of 200 miles, i spent 210 in energy.
leaving it on the battery percentage is a great way to view mileage left (just multiply by 3 to get quick range estimate) The best i found out through the tech is to Navigate -> go the the energy graph and a new option showing the the "trip" which takes into account, hills and pedal usage, and shows your current charge and your detination arrival charge that is left. This view adjusts as you hammer the accelerator or baby it.
My new favorite feature!
TL:DR
False alarm, I drive it like i stole and was reading the display incorrectly.
+1
+1
-1
Vote comment up/down
daftcunt (Old Spike)
Yeah, even if you intend to drive in the same fashion every day all sorts of things will mess with your "calculation".
127$ for rotating tyres is too expensive, I can do this at home in half an hour...
Comments
(Old Spike)
This car is incredible value for the money, you just have to have the $$$. Besides that, I almost agree with everything he said.
(Old Spike)
Like I said in another post the quality willhave to be evaluated over time.
What gets me is this automatic software update, what if one day they decide "your model is obsolete now, pleasebring it to the next tesla recycling station"?
Another issue with the model 3 is they all actually have the same battery but only in the expensive model you get the full range, this is "taking the piss squared"
!
(Old Spike)
WRT Quality: the biggest cost and most important thing are the batteries and Tesla is proven to be much better than anyone else (I'll reply below to the other post on that). Other than that the most expensive quality issue in a ICE is the engine/exhaust/etc... which Tesla doesn't have. Outside of that, what are we left with? body, paint, interior? There are definitly some issues with these things that are not as good as the mainstream auto companies. Some model 3s are worse than others. I think the questions becomes, how long are you going to own it before upgrading? :)
RE: Your model is obsolete software update: So if they stop updating the software automatically you will have the same software - like every other auto manufacture. I think it's more fear then substance. Sure Tesla could be dicks and say after 10 years, no more updates for you, go buy another Tesla. And you could watch your car's re-sale value plummet, even though everything else is great. This would be a poor choice for Tesla. I think you will see more specific things not work, like, hey we can't give you the latest auto pilot because you are running old hardware (true). But if you come in an upgrade your sensors and cameras you will be good to go. Anyway, at least you don't have to pay $300 for an update and take it into the shop to have a mechanic install it.
RE: the battery size, that is half right and there is a significant reason why plus it doesn't matter. First the Long Range/Performance have an extra cell vs Standard version and you can't buy those versions with the cell disabled. Yes the Standard and Standard+ have the same amount of cells and the Standard has less range that can be software upgraded to the Standard+ range. BUT, this was done so the base price of that vehicle model could meet tax credit/incentives limits and Musk also wanted to deliver a $35K USD car. Tesla may actually be losing money on the Standard. And even after that the range for the price is still better than any other battery electric vehicle.
I won't argue that Tesla isn't trying to be creative with packaging/pricing and has made some mistake but to imply that they are trying to trick people is a bit of a stretch. As I said earlier, yes the car is expensive but for what you get it is an incredible deal. There are so many things that would only come in an ICE car for $30K+ more.
(Old Spike)
Well I meant more like the car goes intoauto mode and drives itself tothe recycling centre... LOL
I did not know about the tax issue.
Lastly there are a few electrical and electronic components in there, that will probably not last. Motors will probably never fail (but are not expensive to replace anyway) and suspension is as in other cars.
(Long Spike)
2% degradation? at 20k miles?
Shit...
I just hit 10k about to get tires rotated on Thursday, already have 5% loss. Charge everyday to 90% and drain to 10-30%
I am curious to see what Tesla has to say about how fast my battery has degradated.
Anyone else curious? I so, I can post an update.
(Old Spike)
I wouldn't worry too much, you are still under waranty.... keep us posted!
(Old Spike)
So warranty is min 70% of battery for 160K-190K km, depending on version.
On the good side, Tesla batteries are incredibly resiliant compared to others. Yes there is a typical 2-5% drop in the first year but after that they trend to 93% after 200K.
Again, compare this to any other BEV and it's untouchable. Can't tell you how many times I've heard a Leaf owner telling me they are down to 50% capacity.
This is for model S and X batteries not model 3, so time will tell if they perform the same but from what I understand, Tesla is trying to make the same batteries and continually improve them so it's not like they are using cheaper quality batteries in the 3. Anyway, in a year or so all models will be using the same type of batteries.
(Long Spike)
So, I got an update!
Battery is still at 100%, I have zero loss. Although, I was educated a little bit. So, i will elaborate.
On the screen of the model 3 you have a battery icon on the left near the top. This icon can either be a percentage or a range mileage. I always have it on mileage, and i charge to 90% so it looks like this.
AUG 20th - 280 miles | SEP 3rd - 275 miles | SEP 20th - 271 miles | OCT 22nd - 267 miles <--- worried
Tesla called me back and offered to schedule me remote diagnostics and remote (mobile) rotation of tires.
Diag would be free as covered under warranty and the rotation is $127 flat fee.
They would come to my work with special jacks, inspect the vehicle and if needed rotate the tires right there for me, no need for me to take time off. $127 is a little expensive like $30 more than average, but it saves me an hour of sitting at Tesla so, I am going to pay it.
Diag came back, battery is fine. The range number is a reflection of how i drive ( i race home most days, or letting others test acceleration by giving them a test drive. ) and turns out I have been speeding to much. The car remembers your driving habits and logs them to calculate your approximate distance left. Very similar to the gas counter part, where you fill out with gas and it tells you how far you can go. The difference being, where gas resets every fill up the Tesla remembers and applies it to the dash display. I am babying the car to work and back now, as it was intended when I first purchased it, arrived home yesterday with 70 miles on my charge to go. which means to get back and forth to work total distance of 200 miles, i spent 210 in energy.
leaving it on the battery percentage is a great way to view mileage left (just multiply by 3 to get quick range estimate) The best i found out through the tech is to Navigate -> go the the energy graph and a new option showing the the "trip" which takes into account, hills and pedal usage, and shows your current charge and your detination arrival charge that is left. This view adjusts as you hammer the accelerator or baby it.
My new favorite feature!
TL:DR
False alarm, I drive it like i stole and was reading the display incorrectly.
(Old Spike)
Yeah, even if you intend to drive in the same fashion every day all sorts of things will mess with your "calculation".
127$ for rotating tyres is too expensive, I can do this at home in half an hour...